Hungry? Here Are the 10 Absolute Best Places to Eat in Varanasi!
The Varanasi You Won’t Find on a Postcard
I’ve been living in a crumbling haveli in the Bengali Tola district for four months now. My lungs are a mix of incense smoke and dust, and my ears have permanent tinnitus from the sound of Bajaj Chetak scooters honking at cows. If you come here as a tourist, you see the flames of Manikarnika and you leave. If you come here to disappear, you realize that Varanasi isn’t a city; it’s a living, breathing organism that tries to digest you. To survive here as a nomad, you have to stop fighting the current of the Ganges and start learning where the side-alleys lead.
Most people eat at the “Blue Lassi” because a guidebook told them to. They sit on a tiny bench, take a photo for Instagram, and leave. They missed the point. To eat well here is to understand the geography of chaos. You need to know which neighborhood specializes in what, and more importantly, where to find a stable fiber connection when the power grids decide to take a nap at 2 PM.
1. Assi Ghat: The Soft Landing and the Best Wood-Fired Pizza
Assi is where most nomads start, and many never leave. It’s the “gentle” part of town. This is where I found Pizzeria Vaatika Cafe. Now, I know what you’re thinking: “I didn’t come to India for pizza.” Shut up and eat the Apple Pie. It’s better than anything your grandmother made. But for a real meal, you go to the backstreets for Teracotta Cafe. They have the most reliable WiFi in the southern part of the city (I’m talking a solid 40Mbps on a good day), and their thali is clean enough that you won’t spend the next day hugging a porcelain throne.
Lifestyle Mechanics: If you’re staying in Assi, the Kashi Gym near the main crossing is your best bet. It’s about 1,500 INR for a monthly pass. It’s gritty, there’s no AC, and you’ll be lifting weights next to guys who look like they could wrestle a tiger, but they’re the friendliest people in the city. For laundry, look for a small shop tucked behind the Heritage Hospital. Ask for “Deepak.” He doesn’t have a sign, but he uses actual detergent and doesn’t beat your clothes against a rock in the river. It’ll cost you about 20 INR per piece.
